Himalayan trip - Help and tips request!

[Lingpupa]

I'm probably going to *somewhere like* Kathmandu later this year, either in the spring or, perhaps more likely, in the autumn. I say "somewhere like" because Darjeeling, other parts of Sikkim, and even Mustang are also in contention, but Kathmandu is the most likely. Dharamsala is somewhere I've never been, but although I have an important teacher who has a house there, I am getting the impression that it's very tourist-oriented. Circumambulation, visits to temples/monasteries, centres, Dharma shopping – it should be that sort of trip. Perhaps I should clarify that my connections are primarily Karma Kagyu and Nyingma (especially Dudjom Tersar).

I have been there at least three times before, but not for 20 years, so things will have changed. Things have of course changed politically, as well as physically, what with the earthquake and the simple fact that things do change over a period of two decades. So a lot of the things that I once knew, and could even have passed on as tips to other people, can no longer be relied on.

So if anyone with more recent experience has the time to drop me a line, saying things like "Oh, you must go there", "That would be a good time to go", "You really should avoid such and such", "At all costs you must (or must not) do this or that" I'd be very grateful. Even just some good websites to read up on the way things are these days would be handy knowledge.

Not to clutter this place up, you might prefer to mail me directly: it's [email protected].

Thanks in advance to anyone who can help!
Best wishes
Alex W

[tingdzin]

Let's see -- first of all, if you're chiefly interested in Kagyu/Nyingma, Mustang has little of those traditions -- they have a very long-standing historical connection with the Sakyas. There's a very large new Sakya gomba at the north end of Pokhara built from donations mostly from Mustang dwellers who have been made wealthy by the tourist traffic there. But if you want just a glimpse of Old Tibet, it might be worth going anyway.

I personally found Dharamsala to be less a tourist trap than Bauddha, though I thought it more oriented towards the government in exile and the Gelugpa school. This is not to say that there is not a lot of genuine Dharma in Bauddha, though, and I think it's the best place for Dharma shopping; I've found things there available nowhere else. The Dudjom tersar has a big presence there.

Darjeeling used to be a colorful little town with a lot of Tibetan and even British interest, but now it's mostly Nepali/Bangali Hindu -- the Brahmins have even co-opted the big hill just above the bazaar, which used to be exclusively Tibetan Buddhist. And Sikkim used to be really Guru Rinpoche country, but it's likewise been Indianized to a distressing degree. Still has some great powerful temples, though, and some feeling of being a sacred land. Nearby Kalimpong has a large Dudjom gomba on the hill outside town, where HH stayed for some time.

I don't know if you went to Yangleshod (Pharping) before. If you did go over twenty years ago, you will be shocked at the changes. Being an older grouch, I preferred it when it was pretty much just Chatral Rinpoche's gomba above the Hindu holy fountains, but now it's crowded and on a major truck route. On the other hand, just about every teacher imaginable has a gomba there now, including Bakha tulku, who is Dudjom.

I was there last just before the earthquake, though, so I can't tell you how things might have changed since then.

[Pema Yolo]

I will reply to you here because other people may find the information useful. I am in Kathmandu now, and have traveled through most of the places that you named pretty extensively over the last two years. Kathmandu, while certainly affected by the quakes, was relatively unscathed compared to the surrounding areas. I was here days after and was very surprised. You will not see much now except for rehab projects in the world heritage sites. It will surely be very, very different from 20 years ago however. The city has expanded considerably. Getting from one side to the other is not pleasant, to say the least. The air quality is also pretty devastating to most EPA protected lungs. Bring some 3M N95 masks for trips across the city or anytime near a road. No joke. You will get sick if you go unprotected.

I have been in Boudhanath for the last month, and while maybe it is a little touristy around the stupa, it is definitely the premiere place from anywhere I have been for dharma shopping. Just not in the ring of shops around the stupa perhaps. The streets exiting the ring have a wealth of shops where they are actually making the items. You can also visit places like the Industrial Estate in Patan and go to individual craft shops for amazing finds. The prices here will be equal to or much less than what you will find in India generally. The quality is very high. Most things come from here, so you're just shopping at the source. The Dudjom Gompa is down the street, but don't expect much interaction. If you visit during pujas you can join in though. The reliquary stupa and the sangyum stupa now have a glass wall instead of a metal grate in front, so the view is very beautiful. The beautifully painted walls have been permanently covered with plywood though. There is also massive construction going on for expanded monks quarters around the gompa, so it's not the most chill place to hang at the moment.

As mentioned in the previous post, Pharping has a wealth of dharma. It will take you a hellacious 90 minute drive to get there. The road is completely destroyed from the large truck traffic. It's brutal. It's really worth a trip, but not worth a day trip. I'd advise staying there for some time, a few days maybe. There are an incredible array of gompas and teachers there now. Also, Chatral Rinpoche's kudung is open to public visits, but I'm not sure for how long. A Dudjom Yangsi is also in the hood, which is something to consider.

Dharamsala, actual Dharamsala, is still very Tibetan. McLeod Ganj up above is more touristy, but also much prettier and where the dharma stuff is more focused. The square is busy with Indian tourists from down below during the days, but the nights are quiet. It's still a very nice place, though a lot of it is filled with world warrior hippie types. There is not really a lot to do per se, but the Dalai Lama's place is very nice to visit as are some of the gompas around. The OTD Karmapa lives at the bottom of the mountain though, so if that's your thing its worth considering. I have really enjoyed spending time there, but I'm not sure I'd recommend it as a dharma vacation destination unlesss you had a specific reason for it, like visiting the teacher you mentioned.

What Tingdzin said about Darjeeling is very true. It's not a place to go for your interests I'd say. The Dudjom Gompa (Zangdok Palri) in Kalimpong was in shambles the last time I went two years ago, and I can't really say I enjoyed Kalimpong much. However, I will have to respectfully disagree about Sikkim though. While Gangtok is pretty abhorrent, there are still amazing trips to be had just outside. Rumtek is wonderful and a place you'd surely be interested in. There are very nice places to stay there. To the west, the Pelling/Yuksom/Tashiding roundtrip was one of the most memorable and wonderful trips I've ever had in my life. If you want to sit in a guru rinpoche cave for hours by yourself without someone trying to sell you a butterlamp, then this is your spot.

If you want to do some Dudjom pilgrimage, go to New York! You can visit Yeshe Nyingpo and Orgyen Cho Dzong all the time. It doesn't get much better than practicing where DR lived and taught for decades. That being said, as Tingdzin mentioned, there is a lot of Dudjom being practiced around Boudha, but good luck finding it or getting "in". There is also a lot of Dudjom connection in Sikkim. The man got around.

Of course, if you have the cash, forget all that and just go to Bhutan.

Hope this helps! Glad to answer any questions.

[tingdzin]

While Gangtok is pretty abhorrent, there are still amazing trips to be had just outside. Rumtek is wonderful and a place you'd surely be interested in. There are very nice places to stay there. To the west, the Pelling/Yuksom/Tashiding roundtrip was one of the most memorable and wonderful trips I've ever had in my life. If you want to sit in a guru rinpoche cave for hours by yourself without someone trying to sell you a butterlamp, then this is your spot.

This is very true.

[Lingpupa]

You've both been very kind to write so much helpful stuff. Thank you.

The decision has fallen - it will be Kathmandu, second half of April.

Yes, I did go to Pharping before, and want to visit again. The idea of spending more than a day-trip there is interesting. It hadn't occurred to me, but it might make sense as I'm only booked in so far for the first three days at Boudha. I'll give that one some thought.

Thanks again for your efforts!

[Pema Yolo]

You'll have a great time! How long will you visit for? I will email you some shopping and restaurant suggestions.

[Palzang Jangchub]

Make sure you visit the small and rustic stupa of Takmo Lüjin found at Namo Buddha. This site was identified by many high lamas (including Dilgo Khyentse Rinpoche and the 16th Gyalwang Karmapa) as the place where Buddha Shakyamuni, in his former life as Prince Mahasattva, sacrificed himself to a starving tigress so that she could feed her cubs rather than have to eat them.

The stupa lies below a huge temple complex that houses Thrangu Tashi Yangtse gompa, popularly known as the "Namo Buddha monastery." Around the monastery there are sites designated as where the tiger's den actually was, a few family stupas, and the location said to be where Mahasattva actually sacrificed himself. In my mind, there is no better pilgrimage place to do the practice of Chöd Lüjin!

The gompa itself, founded by Khenchen Thrangu Rinpoche as the name suggests, is one of the most spectacular I've ever seen. Make sure to visit the large main temple shrine room (lhakhang), the Tara temple (Drölma lhakhang), and the Shakyamuni temple (Jowo lhakhang). Supposedly there's a piece of the arm from the original wooden Jowo statue in their smaller version. Practicing and praying in front of it is a great way to do a sort of mini pilgrimage to the Jokhang temple in Lhasa!

[Lingpupa]

You'll have a great time! How long will you visit for? I will email you some shopping and restaurant suggestions.

You are too kind! Just two weeks, Monday land, Monday go, so it shouldn't be hard to fill the days!

Thanks also to Karma Jinpa for the suggestion. Definitely on my list!

[Yudron]

Buy one of those cloth masks as soon as you see one and don't travel the main roads in Kathmandu without out it. It reduces how many particulates you inhale. The pollution can make you very sick very fast.

Even in McLeod Ganj, they burn their garbage—plastic and all. Avoid that smoke like the plague.

[Lingpupa]

Since I got back from Kathmandu at the beginning of May I've been saying that I'd write the trip up with some pictures. It's done! It may still contain bloopers, so it would be great if you'd let me know of any you notice. The link is: http://alex-wilding.com/the-kathmandu-report/ . I hope you enjoy it!

Thanks again for the advice received!

[conebeckham]

Personally, Gangtok is not a bad place....it's much nicer than it was before they closed MG Marg. Delhi, now that's a pit. And don't get me started on Salagara.

Nice pics, BTW!

[Punya]

The moment you step through the gate, the noise and dust from the street fall away; you see the south face of the stupa right in front of you, and you know that you are in a remarkable place.

Yes, I've been there twice (pre-earthquake) and I can't wait to return. Happily though, Dilgo Khyentse Yangsi Rinpoche is visiting my country later in the year.

Thank you for sharing your diary Alex. I look forward to reading all of it, when I have the time.